Road You’re somewhere over 11,000 feet up, the air is sharp and thin, and the final tendrils of fog have burned off enough for you to see ridgelines that look like they’ve been crudely torn from the pages of a postcard. That is the allure of the San Juan Mountains. But it is far more than a road trip; this place offers the most authentic trip into the heart of the American West possible.
I’ve traversed portions of the Rockies and National Parks in Utah; however, the San Juan Mountains seem more rugged and remote in a way that feel like an undiscovered corner of America, despite having some of the most iconic road trips of Colorado and America within the mountain range.
So in order to experience this particular corner of the state to the fullest, you will want to do some road trip planning to maximize your time. It is with this mission in mind, and the purpose of this post, that you will find out: how to plan a road trip through the San Juan Mountains, Colorado. Whether the San Juan Skyway calls to you with its perfectly paved miles, or if the challenge of the Alpine Loop calls louder to you with its primitive gravel roads, this road trip plan should equip you with everything you need to plan a trip of a lifetime to the heart of the San Juan’s, from choosing a town to sleep in to a driving route through it.
The Heart of the Journey Choosing Your Route
Before you pack a single bag, you need to decide what kind of adventure you want. The San Juan Mountains offer two primary road trip experiences, and your choice will define your entire trip.
The San Juan Skyway The Classic Paved Loop
The San Juan Skyway is a 236-mile All-American Road that loops through the heart of the region . It’s fully paved so any vehicle-sports car or huge RV-can travel it. This roadway links some of the region’s famous destinations: Durango, Silverton, Ouray, and Telluride.
Driving time for the Skyway is estimated to be around six to seven hours (just driving, no stopping!), so you’ll want to schedule a few days at least-two to three days would be a good plan. The showstopper for this drive is the Million Dollar Highway (US 550) between Silverton and Ouray, where you’ll find steep cliffs, no guardrails, and views that are to die for .
The Alpine Loop The Ultimate Off Road Adventure
Do you want to leave the pavement behind and hit some off road terrain? The Alpine Loop is for you! At only 65 miles long, this road connects Lake City, Silverton, and Ouray . You’ll need to be in a high clearance 4WD vehicle for this route as it takes you way up high into the high country.
The Alpine Loop goes over Engineer Pass (12,800 ft) and Cinnamon Pass (12,600 ft) leading you to ghost towns, old mining camps and some of the state’s wildest territory. Don’t plan on going until the snow melts (usually late June through mid September)
Pro Tip: For your first trip to the region, I recommend simply driving the San Juan Skyway; it’s a well rounded experience hitting the high points without the commitment of off-road driving.
The Ultimate San Juan Skyway Itinerary
Ultimate 3-5 Day San Juan Skyway itinerary This is the bulk of your Colorado road trip. The breakdown below outlines the road trip, and the itinerary is built around the classic Skyway driving experience in Colorado.
If you’re an off-roader, the Alpine Loop is a non-negotiable.
Ultimate 3-5 Day San Juan Skyway itinerary This is the bulk of your Colorado road trip. The breakdown below outlines the road trip, and the itinerary is built around the classic Skyway driving experience in Colorado.
Arrival in Durango & the Animas River Valley
Start in Durango. Durango is the de facto capital of the area and an ideal town to get acclimatized, especially as the biggest airport in the area, and all services can be found here. Activities in Durango.
Explore the historic downtown area, get a pint at a local brewhouse such as Steamworks, or see the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum to appreciate the local history of the mining area.
Set out on US 550 North early in the morning. The route is north through the Animas River Valley, and along the way, make a stop at Purgatory Resort, take a photograph, and stop again at the Molas Pass(10,910 ft) to view the Weminuche Wilderness. End the day in Silverton.
Silverton to Telluride Conquering the Million Dollar Highway
Most everyone has their favorite day and this is it. After waking up in the historic mining community of Silverton (9,318ft elevation), it is time to experience the Drive of a Lifetime!
The Drive: Take US 550 north as it becomes known as Million Dollar Highway. As you ascend Red Mountain Pass (11,018ft) the terrain is awash in rust red colors from oxidized minerals, creating the otherworldly landscape that is found throughout this pass. It is an amazing drive as you will find yourself snaking through the Uncompahgre Gorge, which has precipitous cliffs with a road that has quite a few switch backs.
Stop in Ouray: After crossing the mountains and exiting the Million Dollar Highway in Ouray, this town, with the moniker “Switzerland of America” thanks to the towering mountains that surround it. Soothe your muscles by taking a soak at the Ouray Hot Springs Pool, taking a look at the natural Box Canyon Falls or enjoy a bit of hiking in the alpine surroundings.
Evening in Telluride: Continue traveling through the town of Ridgway and over the Dallas Divide before reaching your first unobstructed view of Mount Sneffels. From here it is an easy drive into the box canyon community of Telluride with all of its energy. Make sure to ride the gondola up from town for incredible views.
Telluride to Durango The Way Home
Exit Telluride on CO 145 S over Lizard Head Pass (10,222 ft.) this is less traveled than the Million Dollar Highway and just as breathtaking, with views of Lizard Head and Wilson Peak.
Stop off in the isolated communities of Rico or Ophir to get a feel for the raw nature of mountain living. If you really want a different experience detour west on US 160 and travel to the historic cliff dwellings at the World Heritage site of Mesa Verde National Park, returning to Durango to close this 236 mile loop.
When is the Best Time to Go?
The San Juan Mountains in Colorado. One key aspect of how to plan a road trip through the San Juan Mountains is selecting a season. This also relates to the kind of landscape you wish to experience.
Summer (June to August) : This is the most popular time to take the San Juan Skyway (also called the Million Dollar Highway, which is part of the byway and extremely narrow).
Roads will all be open and the wildflowers bloom in July. However, expect more traffic and summer afternoon thunderstorms. Fall (September – October) : I prefer to take a road trip through the San Juans this time of year. Aspen and spruce trees turn a brilliant golden color, contrasting with the green pines, the crisp autumn air and far fewer people.
Spring/Winter : The Million Dollar Highway (which will also close in winter), and other parts of the San Juan Skyway and the Alpine Loop road are frequently snow closed and very dangerous to drive at this time of year.
Don’t even consider it unless you are in Colorado to ski at Telluride, which is one of the most premier ski destinations in the US.
Where to Stay & Refuel
Expect a lot of road tripping, but you can plan to book your home base in some central hub towns. You really can’t go wrong in basing yourself in Durango or Telluride, though.
Highlights Include
* Durango: First timer favorite. Lots of hotel options and Airbnbs to choose from. Wonderful nightlife and dining.
* Telluride: Pricey and boutique. High end but welcoming. Make summer festival reservations months ahead.
* Ouray: “Hot Springs town” (and it delivers!). Low key and chill for mid-trip R&R.
* Silverton: “Hardscrabble” and historical. Perfect “final stop” as you prepare to head home.
Packing Essentials for the San Juans
Weather in the mountains can be tricky; I live by the “layers” theory.
\ 2 Clothing: T-shirts, long-sleeved shirt, a fleece, and a waterproof/wind-proof shell. It snows at high elevations in August, even.
\ 3 Footwear: Solid hiking boots or sturdy tennis shoes
\ 4 Vehicle: If driving the Skyway, any standard car will work; just carry a spare tire and make sure your brakes are in good working order. High clearance 4wd is absolutely essential if you’re tackling the Alpine Loop.
\ 5 Tech: camera (phone cameras are okay if good enough) and offline maps. Don’t forget to download Google Maps for the area beforehand, as cell signal is a myth in the high country.
\ 6 Miscellaneous: sunscreen, sunglasses (the high altitude sun is intense!) and water and snacks for long drives.
5 Pro Tips for a Stress Free Road Trip
- Book in Advance You’ll need to book campground spots or hotels well in advance for July and August, particularly if heading into Telluride or Ouray. Otherwise, you’ll be sleeping in your vehicle. Start Early Leave the hotel by 8 a.m.
- The benefit?
- You’ll avoid traffic congestion and high country afternoon storms. Gas Up The distance between the primary towns makes a gas station a rarity. Keep your fuel tank full when you have a chance, whether you are passing through Silverton or Lake City. Check the Road Conditions Use the CDOT Web site or call Colorado Highway Patrol to ensure road conditions are stable for your travel. Accidents or weather events can temporarily shut down the Million Dollar Highway.
- Be Mindful of the Altitude Telluride’s elevation is about 9,000 feet, so stay hydrated, reduce or eliminate alcoholic consumption during the first day of the trip, and rest up.
Conclusion
Don’t let the thought of planning a journey into the San Juan Mountains overwhelm you it’s more than worth it. I still vividly remember coming up over Red Mountain Pass and just staring at the seemingly infinite ocean of peaks before me; it felt like uncovering a secret, brand new part of the world. You’re well on your way to experiencing this safely if you choose to use these tips as a guide.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How long does it take to drive the San Juan Skyway?
The 236 mile loop takes about 6-7 hours without any stops . However, you should plan to spend 2 to 3 days to explore the towns, hike, and take photos. Trying to do it in one day is a disservice to the experience.
Do I need a 4WD vehicle for this road trip?
It depends on your route. The San Juan Skyway is fully paved and accessible in any passenger car. If you plan to drive the Alpine Loop, you absolutely need a high-clearance 4WD vehicle with low-range gearing .
What is the best month to road trip the San Juan Mountains?
September is arguably the best month. The aspen leaves turn a stunning gold, the summer crowds have dissipated, and the weather is still pleasant. July is great for wildflowers but busier .
Is the Million Dollar Highway dangerous?
It can be intimidating! The road has steep cliffs, sharp curves, and a lack of guardrails in some sections . Drive slowly, obey speed limits, and pay attention. It’s safe if you drive with respect.
What is the highest point on the San Juan Skyway?
The highest point is Red Mountain Pass, which sits at an elevation of 11,018 feet . Be prepared for thin air and potentially cool temperatures, even in summer.
Can I take an RV on the San Juan Skyway?
Yes, RVs are permitted on the San Juan Skyway, but be cautious. The Million Dollar Highway has tight turns. The Alpine Loop is not suitable for RVs or trailers .
What are the best towns to stay in?
Durango and Telluride are the most popular and offer the best dining and activities. Ouray and Silverton offer a more quiet, rugged, and historic feel .